Neighborhood Classic: Manoli Canoli
Manoli Canoli, on Connecticut Avenue in the Chevy Chase Lake neighborhood, serves up classic Italian and Greek cuisine.
Want in on a well-kept secret? Manoli Canoli is a restaurant in the Chevy Chase Lake Shopping Center on Connecticut Avenue that often gets overlooked—except by savvy neighbors who prefer to keep it their little secret.
It's time to share.
Lots of regulars dine at Manoli Canoli—families, groups and people on dates—all enjoying the ambiance of this quiet, friendly place that’s rarely crowded. Located in an easy-to-access shopping center with free parking, Manoli Canoli is flanked by Einstein Bros Bagels, Starbucks and a gas station. The restaurant features a large selection of Greek and Italian classics, and each dish is prepared with care and attention to detail.
While dining here for lunch, my guests and I were charmed by the congenial manager who took time to recommend his favorite dishes, as well as describe some of the techniques that make this food above-average for a neighborhood bistro.
“This food brings me back to my mother’s table in Greece,” he told us.
Manoli Canoli makes its own mozzarella daily from scratch, along with a few signature pasta sauces. The interior is casual and bright, but the utilitarian façade belies the careful attention to food preparation and excellent service. On this visit, each of our dishes arrived promptly and piping hot. The servers checked regularly to inquire about our needs.
We set out to test their Greek cuisine, since one of my guests lived in Greece and could attest to the authenticity of the dishes. We started with a very thick, creamy tzatziki accompanied by a generous portion of pita slices for dipping. The tzatziki—thick Greek yogurt—was lightly seasoned with a hint of garlic and olive oil, with tiny bites of cucumber. The consistency was dense and rich—not watery, as is often the case at so many restaurants.
We also ordered the spanakopita—a Greek pastry made of phyllo and spinach. Of course, making spanakopita varies depending on recipe and technique, but this version was one of the best I’ve ever sampled. The phyllo was razor thin and not greasy. The spinach was rich, dry and firm, and sprinkled lightly with feta and olive oil. The triangular pastries stayed crisp and arrived hot out of the oven, accompanied by slices of tomato and a block of feta. I was disappointed that I had to share this Greek paradise on a plate.
We also requested their specialty—moussaka. Similar to lasagna, this dish is extremely hard to master as it requires cutting eggplant and potatoes into slivers that often become soggy with baking. Not in this case. Flavored with black pepper, nutmeg and cinnamon, the minced beef had virtually no fat, because it had “been drained 10 times,” according to our server. Topped with a soft cushion of béchamel sauce, each layer and ingredient retained its structural integrity. My Greek aficionado proclaimed it nirvana.
Entrees come with a side, and our moussaka was served with green beans in a tomato sauce. We felt the sauce was more Italian than traditional Greek.
But the kitchen redeemed itself with its prowess on the grill. A hearty chicken souvlaki delighted us with its juicy slices of char-grilled white meat encased in a soft white pita.
I ordered the “Manoli Special,” which receives this designation for featuring homemade mozzarella on a soft bun. The sandwich includes shaved prosciutto, tomato, a homemade dressing and a combination of ground vegetables—carrots, greens—really flavorful. The prosciutto was fatty, and overall this sandwich is dry. But, to be fair, the waiter did not encourage me to order this dish. This was a rare case in which I disobeyed my own rule: always follow the recommendations made by your server. The sandwich was fresh and filling, but a better way to sample the homemade mozzarella would be to try the caprese salad, in which the cheese is given its proper starring role.
We were too satiated to eat dessert, although the canoli pastries behind the glass counter were calling my name. Manoli Canoli also sells refrigerated and frozen homemade sauces, ravioli and tortellini, along with their own bottles of olive oil made from olives pressed at the family’s home in Greece. A few people stopped in for takeout while we were there. (Read more about Manoli Canoli's signature olive oil on Chevy Chase Patch.)
While we bundled up to leave, our server stopped by the table, and said sincerely, “I hope you’ll come back again soon.” We all agreed that this was a distinct possibility. Next time, we plan to try all the Italian dishes.
Have you discovered Manoli Canoli yet, and if so, what do you think of their pizza and pasta? What neighborhood treasures you are willing to share? Tell Patch in your comments.
Read restaurant reviews every other week on Patch. Recent restaurants reviewed include Lumpia Pansit in Gaithersburg and Divino Lounge in Bethesda.